The seller pays the transaction fees. The process is the same as if you went a retail store and purchased an item with a credti card. The retail store is charged the transaction fee. If you as a buyer have not verified your account, you still have protection assuming you follow the guidelines in the User Agreement. Note, having an unverified account means that you do have limits imposed for both sending and receiving funds. If someone is selling an item and does not accept PayPal. Is there an alternative method of payment that safeguards the buyer? If you paid by using a credit card, for assistance, you would have to contact your credit card issuer.
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